Flea and Tick Facts and Suggestions.
Attempting to control fleas on our pets is a multi-step process. Adult fleas spend most of their time on an animal, but the flea eggs, larvae, and pupae are found in abundance in the environment such as in carpeting, rugs, bedding, and grass. For every flea that you see on your pet, there are likely to be hundreds of eggs and larvae in your home and yard. Therefore, a truly effective flea control program always includes treating the environment as well as treating your pet. These are the essential steps for a successful flea control program:
Ingredients of flea control products can vary and include adulticides, chemicals that can kill immature forms, insect growth regulators/development inhibitors, or combinations thereof. The choice of products will need to be based on the extent of the flea infestation; the species, breed, health status, and age of the pet; the environment; presence of other pets; and special family needs (e.g., infants, people with asthma).
Flea Control in the Indoor Environment
There is no successful flea control program that does not involve treating the environment.
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Indoor flea control involves mechanically removing all stages of the fleas, killing any remaining adults, and preventing immature forms from developing.
- Start by vacuuming thoroughly, especially below drapes, under furniture edges, and where your pet sleeps. It is estimated that vacuuming can remove up to 50% of flea eggs. Vacuum daily in high traffic areas, weekly in others. Each time, seal your vacuum bag in a plastic bag and discard it immediately. Do NOT place mothballs or flea collars in the vacuum, since toxic fumes could result.
- Use a product that will kill any remaining adult fleas and also stop the development of eggs and larvae. You will need a product that contains both an adulticide and an insect growth regulator (IGR), such as Nylar (pyriproxyfen) or methoprene. This can be in the form of carpet powders, foggers, or sprays.Foggers are especially good for large open areas. Surface sprays can reach areas such as baseboards, moldings, cracks, and under furniture where foggers cannot reach. Choose the product(s) you use with care, taking into account the presence of children, fish, birds, persons with asthma, etc. Your veterinarian can help you choose the appropriate products for your situation. In severe infestations, you may need the help of a professional exterminator.
- Wash your pet's bedding weekly and treat the bed and surrounding area with a product that contains both an adulticide and an insect growth regulator.
- Do not forget to also clean and treat your automobile, pet carrier, garage, basement, or any other place your pet spends much time.
Flea Control in the Outdoor Environment
Flea control in the outdoor environment generally involves treating the yard and kennel areas where fleas are most likely to occur. Fleas tend to like it where it is moist, warm, shady, and where there is organic debris. They will also tend to be where pets spend more of their outdoor time. So be sure to concentrate on areas such as patios, under porches, dog houses, etc.Rake away any organic debris such as leaves, straw, grass clippings, etc., to disturb flea habitat and allow any flea and tick product you use outdoors to penetrate.If you are going to treat your yard, we prefer an environmentally safe spray containing fenvalerate for this purpose. There are also sprays which contain insect growth regulators which can be used.You may need to treat the yard every 7 to 21 days depending on the product. Regardless of the product used, remember not to spray when or where runoff could go into lakes or rivers. Read the label on all insecticides thoroughly and apply them as directed.
Flea Control on Your Pet
| It is perfectly normal to see live fleas on a pet immediately after spraying, shampooing, dipping, etc. It takes time for the flea control products to work. |
Now that we've taken care of the fleas in your home and treated the "hot spots" in your yard, it's time to eliminate the fleas that are on your pet. There are a number of flea control products for use on pets, including once-a-month topical products, sprays, dips, shampoos, collars, powders, oral, and injectable products. With any product applied directly to the pet, please remember that you may see some live fleas on your pet for a short time after spraying, shampooing, dipping, etc. In order for the fleas to die, they must come into contact with the insecticide, and absorb it.Keep in mind that until all of the fleas in your home have died, you will probably still see some fleas, even on a treated pet, since some immature forms may continue to develop. This is especially true if you had a big flea problem to start with. Persistence is the key here. It is essential to keep following an effective flea control program for a long enough time to get rid of all of the fleas, in all life stages. This may take several weeks to 6 months or more, depending on your particular situation.
Once-a-month Topicals:
Once-a-month topical insecticides are applied to a small area on your pet's back, are probably the easiest product to use, and generally last the longest. Some kill fleas and ticks, and others just kill fleas, so check the label carefully. Ingredients generally include permethrin, pyrethrin, or fipronil. Examples include Advantage, , K9 Advantix , Revolution. Since many dog products can be very harmful if used on cats, read the label carefully. Remember: Do NOT use products containing permethrins on cats.
Sprays:
Flea and tick control sprays can come as aerosols or pump bottles. When using a spray, you do not have to soak the pet with the spray, but be sure to spray all parts of the animal. Spray a small amount on a cotton ball to apply the product around the eyes and ears. Do not get any of these products in the eyes. Follow your veterinarian's and the manufacturer's directions on how often to spray, and spray in a well-ventilated area.
Dips:
Dips and rinses are applied to the entire animal. They generally have some residual activity. They should be applied in a well-ventilated area according to your veterinarian's and the manufacturer's directions. It is helpful to put cotton balls in the pet's ears and ophthalmic ointment in the pet's eyes. Even with these precautions, be very careful not to get any of the product in the pet's ears or eyes. Dips or rinses may contain pyrethrins, permethrins or organophosphates.
Shampoos:
Flea and tick shampoos help to primarily rid the pet of the fleas and ticks he already has on him, although some have residual activity. To properly use a flea & tick shampoo you must be sure to work the shampoo in over the entire body and then leave it on at least 10 minutes before you rinse it off. Again, remember to protect the eyes and ears of the pet. Shampoos often contain pyrethrins.
Collars:
Flea & Tick Collars can be effective, but must be applied properly. To get the right degree of snugness, you should just be able to get two fingers between the collar and your pet's neck. Be sure to cut off any excess portion of the collar after you have properly applied it. Otherwise, that animal or other pets may try to chew on the end. Check the package for information on duration of effectiveness since some collars lose effectiveness when they get wet, e.g., if your dog swims a lot. Watch carefully for any irritation under the collar. If this occurs, you may need to use a different product.
Do NOT use collars containing Amitraz, permethrin, or organophosphates on cats.
Tick Control
Tick control is not unlike that used for fleas in that there are no shortcuts, no sure cures, and the battle must be on-going. Tick control is a two-step process, in that measures must be implemented to treat both the environment and the pet. Ticks, despite all their legs and ugliness are not hard to kill.
Environmental tick control
Tick control in the environment generally involves treating the yard and kennel areas. We prefer an environmentally-safe spray containing fenvalorate for this purpose. Spray every thirty days during the peak tick months. In our area, that is April through November. Regardless of the product used, remember not to spray when or where runoff could go into lakes or rivers. Read the label on all insecticides thoroughly and apply them as directed.
Remember the cold, frosty fall weather does not kill ticks, and in fact, that is when the deer tick numbers are at their peak. In Northern, Wisconsin, the best time to contract Lyme Disease is during September, October, and November since the deer tick is the primary carrier. The point here, is to treat the yard late into the fall and early winter.
Removing leaves and clearing brush and tall grass from around the house and kennel areas can help reduce the number of ticks.
The Brown Dog Tick, Rhipicephalus sanguineus is the most troublesome tick in kennels and yards and is found almost everywhere. It can complete its life cycle in about 2 months, and although uncommon, it can become established indoors. If you do encounter an indoor tick problem, then use a flea and tick fogger. Fog as you would for fleas. In the house, ticks tend to crawl to a higher area (like they do in grass). They may be found in cracks around windows and doors. Because of this tendency and the fact that ticks crawl, and do not jump or fly, another option is to apply a 1-foot barrier of insecticide such as a flea and tick powder where the carpet meets the wall around the entire room. As a result, ticks moving to the walls to climb higher will come in contact with the insecticide and be killed. And, finally, remember to wash the pet's bedding regularly.
Tick control on your pet
Keeping pets out of grasses and woods helps to reduce their exposure to ticks. But any animal outside can quite easily have a tick crawl on board. Products that kill and repel ticks are needed.
Products for pets are many and varied and include once-a-month topical products, sprays, powders, dips, shampoos, and collars.
| Permethrin should NOT be used on cats. Instead, use a product containing pyrethrin or fipronil. |
Once-a-month Topicals: Once-a-month topical insecticides are applied to a small area on the back of the pet, are probably the easiest product to use, and generally, last the longest. Some kill fleas and ticks, and others just fleas, so check the label carefully. Ingredients generally include permethrin, pyrethrin, imidacloprid, or fipronil. Examples of these products include K9 Advantix for Dogs, and Frontline . Revolution, which contains selamectin, is a monthly topical product that controls American Dog Ticks (Dermacentor variabilis) only.
Sprays: Flea and tick control sprays can come as aerosols or pump bottles. When using a spray, you do not have to soak the pet with the spray, but be sure to spray all parts of the animal. Spray a small amount on a cotton ball to apply the product around the eyes and ears. Do not get any of these products in the eyes. Follow your veterinarian's and the manufacturer's directions on how often to spray, and spray in a well-ventilated area. Sprays often contain permethrin or pyrethrin. Note: Most cats prefer the pump bottles, since the hiss from the aerosols may sound too much like the hiss of another cat. If you are going to use an aerosol spray on a cat, it may be helpful to spray a cloth with the product (away from the cat), and then rub the cat with the cloth.
Powders: Powders are generally easy to apply but can create a mess. If you or your pet has asthma, powders may not be the best choice of product since the powder could be inhaled. Be sure to use powders in well-ventilated areas. Powders often contain pyrethrin.
Dips: Dips and rinses are applied to the entire animal. They generally have some residual activity. They should be applied in a well-ventilated area according to your veterinarian's and the manufacturer's directions. It is helpful to put cotton balls in the pet's ears and ophthalmic ointment in the pet's eyes. Even with these precautions, be very careful not to get any of the product in the pet's ears or eyes. Dips and rinses may contain permethrin, pyrethrin, or organophosphates.
Shampoos: Shampoos help to primarily rid the pet of the ticks it already has on it, although some have residual activity. To properly use a flea & tick shampoo you must be sure to work the shampoo in over the entire body and then leave it on at least 10 minutes before you rinse it off. This is true of almost any medicated shampoo. Again, remember to protect the eyes and ears of the pet. (HINT: Cats often do not like running water It is often better to pour water over a cat with a large pitcher.) Shampoos often contain pyrethrin.
Collars: Collars can be effective, but must be applied properly. To get the right degree of snugness, you should just be able to get two fingers between the collar and the neck of your pet. Be sure to cut off any excess portion of the collar after you have properly applied it. Otherwise, that animal or other pets may try to chew on the end. Check the package for information on duration of effectiveness since many collars lose effectiveness when they get wet, e.g.; if a dog swims a lot. Watch carefully for any irritation under the collar. If this occurs, you may need to use a different product.
Remember, with any tick preventive you use on your pet, the ticks must actually be in contact with the active ingredient to be killed by it. For instance, if you only use a tick collar, you may see ticks attached and feeding on the dog, even directly under the tick collar. This has to happen for the tick to take in the insecticide and die. A good tick collar will kill the tick in 24 hours or less. This greatly reduces the risk of tick-transmitted diseases since it generally requires more than 24 hours of attachment for disease to be transmitted.
Even a pet who is treated with an insecticide could potentially get a tick that attaches for a sufficient time to transmit disease. Vaccines for Lyme disease for dogs are available to provide that extra protection.
Tick control for you
The following recommendations on tick control for people have been made by the federal government's Center for Disease Control:
It is best to avoid tick-infested areas especially during the times of peak tick numbers such as spring and late fall. If you are going to walk through areas where ticks could be a problem, wear a hat, long-sleeved shirt, and long pants. Tuck your pant legs into socks or boots, and tuck your shirt or blouse into your pants. If you wear light-colored clothing you will be able to spot ticks more easily. Try to walk in the center of trails to avoid long or overhanging grass and bushes. Spraying insect repellent containing DEET on your clothes and exposed skin, except for your face, will help. Or, you may want to treat your clothes, especially pants, socks and shoes, with permethrin which kills ticks on contact.
When you come in from the outdoors, remove your clothing and wash and dry it at a high temperature. It is a good idea to inspect yourself carefully for any ticks. If you find an attached tick, remove it carefully.
Flea and Tick Products We Provide
Dogs:
Advantage (Flea)
Advantage Multi (Flea, Intestinal Parasites, Heart Worm)
Comfortis (Oral Once-a-Month Tablet, Flea)
Promeris (Flea & Tick)
K9 Advantix (Flea & Tick)
Fronline Plus ( Flea &Tick)
Cats:
Advantage (Flea)
Advantage Multi (Flea, Ear Mite, Itestinal Parasite & Heart Worm)
Promeris (Flea & Tick)
Frontline Plus (Flea & Tick)
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